The Joy of Neat Spirits

By Thursday, January 3, 2019

A fine cocktail is a thing of beauty. “The only American invention as perfect as the sonnet,” as old H.L. Mencken famously said of the martini. But do you ever find yourself drowning in the ever-rising tide of new cocktails? Do you ever tire of recipes that seem solely designed to please the crowd? Are you ever exhausted by endless “innovation” in mixology? Do you ever wish for something…simpler?

Perhaps, as we come to this contemplative time of year, we all need a drinking companion to Marie Kondo’s best-selling book on tidy simplicity: The Life-Changing Magic of Drinking Neat. When pouring a neat spirit, there’s nowhere to hide. The quality (or lack thereof) is all there in the glass. To be clear, sipping a neat spirits is not just “doing a shot.” We’re happy to see more and more bars and restaurants offering menu selections of neat pours — always a boon to a robust cocktail program. (Oh, and no worries if you prefer a few ice cubes instead of totally neat, that’s fine, too!)

The difference between the cocktail menu and the neat spirits menu is similar to the difference between creators and curators. With mixology, the action is performance based, with the creator taking center stage: Out of many ingredients, he or she creates one final result. But serving neat spirits requires a difference sort of attitude. The curator of neat spirits is guided by a philosophy or a narrative, a storyteller who translates rather than interprets, someone who educates.

Too many spirits enthusiasts jump to Cognac or Scotch when thinking of neat spirits — but aged rum works especially well in a neat pour. Complex rhum agricoles such as Rhum Clément’s svelte, sophisticated V.S.O.P. and rich, intense 10-year-old Grande Reserve. Rhum J.M’s robust and spirited V.O, its gorgeous X.O, and its elegant and layered 10- and 15-year old vintages are all rums worth savoring in fine glassware. And don’t forget the Forgotten Cask bottling made by Chairman’s Reserve, which also deserves some neat attention.

 

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